This article was written during the most grueling period of my PhD application process. I am deeply grateful for the inner peace brought by cooking, growing vegetables, and gardening—activities that allowed me to connect with the earth and nature.
I have always been troubled by the fact that the rice I cook at home always seems to lack… something.
Some of the best rice I’ve ever eaten includes a fried rice dish from a stall on the second floor of my undergraduate university’s “Canteen No. 1,” the rice at Tai Er Sauerkraut Fish, the rice at Nong Geng Ji, and the rice at Hui Shi Jia (a Michelin-starred restaurant in Guangzhou). Yet, what I cook at home always falls short.
Learning that most of these places use Wuchang Rice (五常大米), I went out and bought Wuchang rice. I even upgraded to a more expensive, high-end rice cooker and pressure cooker. But when I cooked it myself—whether it was the aroma or the texture—it still felt unsatisfactory.
I wasn’t ready to accept defeat. So, I began my quest to find truly delicious rice.
Rice originated in China, but China’s rice breeding technology had a relatively late start, with most efforts historically focused on higher yields and better adaptability to growing conditions. The history of pursuing flavor is much shorter. After all, Chinese people have only had days of being fully fed and warm for about 30 years, and days of eating well and dressing fashionably for perhaps only a little over a decade.
About Rice Varieties
Rice is generally classified into three categories based on the nature of its starch: Indica (Xian), Japonica (Jing), and Glutinous (Nuo).
- Indica Rice (籼米): Highest content of Amylose (straight-chain starch), lowest content of Amylopectin (branched-chain starch). It has high transparency.
- Japonica Rice (粳米): High Amylose content, high hardness, lower Amylopectin content.
- Glutinous Rice (糯米): Low Amylose, high viscosity (stickiness), highest Amylopectin content. It is opaque and appears white.
Amylopectin gelatinizes when heated, which is what makes rice sticky. Therefore, Glutinous rice (highest Amylopectin) becomes very sticky when cooked, making it suitable for Zongzi (sticky rice dumplings) and Rice Cakes. Conversely, Indica rice (lowest Amylopectin) remains fluffy with loose grains, making it ideal for Egg Fried Rice or Clay Pot Rice (Bao Zai Fan).
Visually, there are significant differences:
- Indica: Generally long and slender. Some varieties from India or Pakistan have a length-to-width ratio exceeding 3:1. It suits subtropical and tropical climates with long daylight hours and short growing cycles.
- Japonica: Shorter, often looking “short and chubby.” It has a longer growing cycle and is more cold-tolerant.
- Glutinous: Tends to be more round.
Since we are looking for daily staples, we mainly focus on Indica and Japonica.
The seemingly rigorous classification above might already be headache-inducing, but reality is even more confusing. For example, a variety we often talk about, Dao Huaxiang No. 2 (strictly named Wuyoudao No. 4), is quite slender. Logically, it should look like Indica, yet it belongs to the Japonica family. Another delicious variety, Yun Jing No. 50, sounds like a Japonica rice by name, but is actually a Glutinous rice.
However, these classifications are just bookishness. What we really care about is: Does it taste good?
Variety is just one variable. There are many others to consider—perhaps even more important ones. Even with the same variety, factors like geographic location, accumulated heat (degree days), and fertilizer use have a huge impact. Dao Huaxiang No. 2 grown in Heilongjiang province might differ vastly from the same seed grown in Liaoning province. Even with the exact same bag of rice, the cooking utensil, water source, water-to-rice ratio, cooking method, and even altitude are all interconnected.
The Contenders
I selected 6 types of rice, hoping to get a glimpse of the bigger picture. The prices listed are per jin (500g).
- Dao Huaxiang No. 2 (稻花香二号): From Wuchang, Heilongjiang. ¥11.6 / 500g
- Nan Jing 9108 (南粳9108): From Nantong, Jiangsu. ¥3.842 / 500g
- Yun Jing No. 50 (云粳 50 号): From Qujing, Yunnan. ¥11.125 / 500g
- Dao Huaxiang No. 6 (稻花香六号): From Liaoning. ¥4.1 / 500g
- Ji Jing 816 (吉粳816): From Gongzhuling, Jilin. ¥6.2 / 500g
- Jasmine Scent 105 (茉莉香105号): From Thai Xianglan, Thailand. ¥5.98 / 500g
Cooking Method: To ensure the variables remained constant, I used a pressure cooker. I placed identical small bowls inside, each containing a different variety of rice. I used RO (Reverse Osmosis) filtered water. Considering new rice doesn’t absorb water easily, and the sealed environment of a pressure cooker requires less water, I used a water-to-rice volume ratio of roughly 0.9:1. The pressure cooker was set to 120kpa. I used the lowest heat for 15 minutes to bring it to pressure, maintained low heat for 3 minutes, then turned off the heat to let it depressurize naturally. I fluffed the rice while hot to release excess moisture.
The Profiles
Dao Huaxiang No. 2
Also known as Wuyoudao No. 4. It was bred by a Korean agronomist, Tian Yongtai, who came to Northeast China after WWII. He combined the characteristics of excellent varieties like Japan’s Kanto 53, Shimokita, and Liaoning’s Fengjin. It is truly the first “Long-Grain Fragrant Rice” from the Northeast to gain world renown. Before this, the cold climate of the Northeast was considered suitable only for the chubby, short Japonica rice. Dao Huaxiang No. 2 became the region’s most famous long-grain Japonica. Wuchang City, with its ideal climate, strict management, and successful marketing, became the most famous production area.
There is a pervasive rumor in China that “Real Wuchang rice is reserved for the powerful; ordinary people can’t buy it.”
Despite how ridiculous this rumor is, it floods the internet today. A simple number debunks it: Wuchang City produces 665,000 tons of rice annually. With such a massive output, it doesn’t take much effort to buy it. Of course, “Bathing Rice” (rice from other regions shipped to Wuchang just to be stamped as ‘produced in Wuchang’) and “Blended Rice” (mixing genuine Wuchang rice with cheaper varieties) do exist. But this doesn’t mean you can’t buy the real thing. Nor does it mean Wuchang rice is objectively the “best”—it’s simply the most famous. For individual consumers, if you have a reliable channel and the price is right, buying Wuchang rice isn’t hard. It just requires a bit more thought than buying generic rice.
Data: Length-to-width ratio is 2.7. This relatively slender shape makes Dao Huaxiang No. 2 more prone to breaking during milling, resulting in “broken rice” which affects texture and appearance. Taste: Ideally balances softness and chewiness (toughness). It has a bite but doesn’t get hard.
Yun Jing No. 50
As mentioned, despite the “Jing” (Japonica) in its name, this is a Glutinous rice. Data: Amylose content is only 1.6% (one-tenth of Dao Huaxiang No. 2). Usually, low amylose makes rice very sticky. Surprisingly, in the actual tasting, I didn’t find it overly sticky. Another notable stat is the “Head Rice Rate” (percentage of whole kernels after milling) is only 44.4%. This means more than half the paddy is ground away to get the white rice, leading to a very low yield. While Dao Huaxiang yields 324kg of rice per mu (Chinese acre), Yun Jing 50 yields only 222kg. This drastically increases cost. Consequently, Yun Jing 50 is rarely fully polished; it usually retains more of the bran (like brown rice), which might explain why it wasn’t overly sticky.
Nan Jing 9108
People view Northeast China as the main production area for delicious rice, often ignoring Jiangsu Province. Jiangsu is a critical rice region, but its agricultural tech is often overshadowed by the province’s massive industrial economy. Nan Jing 9108 was finalized in 2013 by the Jiangsu Academy of Agricultural Sciences.
Data: Amylose 14.5%. It belongs to the Semi-Glutinous type. Visually, it shows some of the opaque whiteness typical of glutinous rice.
Dao Huaxiang No. 6
With No. 2 being such a stellar parent, upgrading it is a constant goal. Dao Huaxiang No. 6, bred by Tianjin Longke, made the “Top 10 Japonica Rice” list.
Data: Compared to No. 2, it has higher gel consistency and higher Amylose (17.3%). This should theoretically increase the “grain-by-grain” separation. However, as mentioned, geography matters. Despite the variety’s accolades, the actual product can vary hugely.
Ji Jing 816
A very new variety, approved in 2023. It was bred specifically for a high “Taste Value” (食味值).
“Taste Value” is a scoring system introduced from Japan that combines chemical indicators (protein, moisture, amylose) with subjective sensory evaluation (appearance, smell, texture).
Its father is the Japanese variety Kokoromachi (renowned for high taste value).
Data: Length-to-width ratio 1.7 (short). Amylose 16.7%.
Jasmine Scent 105 (Moli Xiang)
The only Indica rice in this test. It is the parent of many famous domestic “Simiao” (Silk Seedling) rice varieties.
Data: (Based on its offspring Moli Xinzhan): Amylose 25.9%. Gel consistency only 38mm. Clearly, the super-high Amylose ensures this rice is not sticky, and the low gel consistency guarantees distinct, separate grains.
For us Cantonese people (no, actually I came from northern China), this is the ultimate configuration for Clay Pot Rice and Fried Rice.
Horizontal Comparison
Aroma: There is a massive difference between new rice and aged rice. Dao Huaxiang No. 2, No. 6, and Jasmine 105 all have robust aromas. When cooked in an electric cooker, the scent permeates the whole room.
It’s a scent that evokes a specific memory: The north wind is howling in winter, a biting chill filling your nose. Every breath shocks your brain. You wrap your padded cotton coat tighter and turn into a narrow alleyway(胡同). It’s dark after school in the northern winter. You are starving. Walking through the alley, under the yellow haze of an incandescent streetlamp, you see rising steam and smell that reassuring, comforting fragrance drifting from a neighbor’s window.
Although my family couldn’t actually afford fragrant rice when I was young—we mostly ate steamed buns (馒头)—that pleasurable scent is instantly the smell of “home.”
Hot Taste (Fresh out of the pot): At very high heat, except for Jasmine, the other five varieties tasted highly similar. Slightly sticky, with almost indistinguishable textures.
Warm Taste (Suitable Eating Temperature): As the temperature dropped, differences emerged, dividing into groups:
- The Good Group: Dao Huaxiang No. 2, Ji Jing 816, Nan Jing 9108.
- The Average Group: Jasmine 105, Yun Jing 50.
- The “Meh” Group: Dao Huaxiang No. 6.
Differences within groups were subtle:
- Dao Huaxiang No. 2: Longer grain. Broken grains affect texture, but overall very balanced.
- Nan Jing 9108: Does not lose to No. 2. Texture is even more chewy/springy (Q-texture).
- Ji Jing 816: Typical sushi rice shape and traits. Excellent texture with a faint sweet aftertaste.
- Yun Jing 50: Yellowish color (retained bran). Softer texture that melts with a light press of the tongue. I personally felt indifferent toward this “mushy” texture.
- Jasmine 105: Typical Indica. Distinct grains, no clumping. As a Northerner favoring strong flavors, the “rice flavor” felt weak.
- Dao Huaxiang No. 6: Most ordinary. Bland. No rice flavor.
Cold Taste (The Stress Test): Differences became stark as the rice turned cold.
- Yun Jing 50: Biggest change. It turned bitter. This was unexpected (could be my cooking error?).
- Jasmine 105: Entered its “Golden Era” for Fried Rice. Grains became completely distinct, aroma faded, texture became tough.
- Dao Huaxiang No. 2: Best cold performance. Retained chewiness and aroma. Clumped together but wasn’t sticky. Sweet aftertaste.
- Nan Jing 9108 & Ji Jing 816: Similar to each other. Nan Jing was stickier and tougher (more like sushi rice) with a sweet aftertaste. Ji Jing was looser.
- Dao Huaxiang No. 6: Still bad.
Conclusion
The Verdict: Hot rice disguises flaws; Dao Huaxiang No. 2, Ji Jing 816, and Nan Jing 9108 are all excellent with unique traits. Yun Jing is for soft/sticky lovers; Jasmine is for those who want distinct grains.
Cold rice reveals the truth: Dao Huaxiang No. 2 is the comprehensive winner, followed closely by Nan Jing and Ji Jing. (Though, realistically, who eats cold plain rice?)
My Personal Scores: (This is purely subjective!)
- Dao Huaxiang No. 2: 90 points
- Nan Jing 9108: 88 points
- Ji Jing 816: 87 points
- Jasmine Scent 105: 85 points
- Yun Jing 50: 75 points
- Dao Huaxiang No. 6: 60 points
Benchmarks:
- Tai Er / Nong Geng Ji: 94 points
- Hui Shi Jia: 96 points
- The White Moonlight: (My University Canteen No. 1, 2nd floor fried rice, which accompanied me through the hardest days of grad school entrance exams) — 100 points.
White Moonlight(白月光) is a poetic metaphor for a cherished, unreachable, or idealized memory (often a first love), which remains perfect in one’s mind.
Value for Money: Considering Nan Jing 9108 costs ¥3.8 and Ji Jing 816 costs ¥6.2, their value is incredibly high. Plus, you don’t have to worry about the fraud rampant in the “Wuchang Rice” market. However, provided the channel is reliable, Dao Huaxiang No. 2 remains the “All-Rounder” (a bucket with no leaks)—almost no weaknesses. As for Dao Huaxiang No. 6, I am beginning to suspect I bought a fake batch.
Future Plans: I plan to review: Xiangshui Rice, Zengcheng Simiao Rice, Jihong No. 6, Sheep Fat (Yangzhi) Rice, and Ning Jing No. 43. But first… it’s going to take me a while to finish eating all the rice I’ve already bought.